Growing Lophophora at each stage! Seed to Mature Plants
These Instructions also work for San Pedro Cacti.
Essential Supplies for Growing Lophophora Cactus.
Lights
Lighting is a crucial factor when growing Lophophora cactus indoors. I recommend investing in LED lights, which are energy-efficient, long-lasting, and have become increasingly powerful and affordable. Opt for daylight-labeled bulbs with a color temperature between 5000 and 6500 Kelvin, as they emit blue-spectrum light that promotes healthy plant growth. In the early stages of your Lophophora’s life, artificial lights offer more consistency and control compared to relying on natural sunlight.
Timers
To maintain a proper light cycle, use digital timers set to 16 hours on and 8 hours off. This ensures your Lophophora gets the right amount of light each day for optimal growth.
Heat Mats
If your grow space is too cool, heat mats can help maintain the ideal soil temperature, especially during germination. Monitor the soil temperature with a thermometer or use a thermostat designed for heat mats.
Growing Containers
For germination, inexpensive clear plastic Tupperware containers from the dollar store work well. I use containers measuring 9” long x 9” wide x 3” high, as the transparency makes it easy to check soil moisture. Once the seedlings are ready to transplant, move them to large, clear storage bins (23” L x 15” W x 6” H), preferably short ones designed to fit under a bed. Choose heavy-duty bins with sturdy bottoms to protect the soil and roots when moving them.
Soil
Start with a high-quality potting mix like Pro-Mix HP, which has added perlite for drainage and mycorrhizae to enhance nutrient absorption. This mix contains no added nutrients, which is perfect for seedlings that can be harmed by nutrient-rich soil. As the cacti mature, incorporate coarse sand, limestone screenings, and pea gravel into the mix.
Fertilizer
After several months, begin fertilizing with Schultz Liquid Cactus Food. In the early stages, the seedlings won’t need any special fertilization, so you can hold off until they’re more established.
Pots
Unglazed terracotta pots are ideal for Lophophora, as their porous nature allows water to evaporate quickly, preventing issues like mold, fungus, and rot caused by overwatering. Ensure the pots have drainage holes and choose deep ones to accommodate the cactus’s large tap root.
Thermometer
Monitor your grow space with a thermometer, ideally one with a built-in hygrometer to track humidity. Lophophora thrives in temperatures between 70°F and 90°F and humidity levels of 40% to 60%. Temperatures outside this range can slow growth, while humidity above 60% may lead to mold and rot.
Racks
For large-scale growing, metal or plastic racks and shelving are practical for organizing multiple cacti and hanging lights efficiently. They maximize space and make managing your setup a breeze.
With these supplies and a little care, you’ll be well on your way to successfully growing Lophophora cactus indoors!
Complete rack, light and tent systems that we switched to:
After spending lots to build our systems, we found that just buying complete systems from Spider Farmer were lower cost after adding everything spent. Wish we had done that from the beginning! NOTE: I’ve purchased every size of these and returned the smallest one. It’s very small and wouldn’t even fit our mesh bottom trays. Be advised that if you have a window with decent light, you don’t need much for fancy stuff like this
Small:
Medium:
Germination
Preparing the Germination Environment
Aaron from Sacred Suttons has a great video for germination.
To start the germination process, select a container such as a 9Lx9Wx3H inch Tupperware, available at a dollar store, and drill several 1/4-inch holes in the bottom for drainage. Opting for clear plastic helps you keep an eye on soil moisture levels once the seedlings are established. Clean the container with isopropyl alcohol for sterilization and label it with the seed type you’ll be using. Fill it with a nutrient-free, high-quality potting mix like Pro-Mix HP, pressing it down gently while leaving a one-inch gap at the top for seedling growth. Cover the container with plastic wrap later, so this space is essential. Set the container in a spot where it can drain safely, then pour boiling spring water over the soil until it’s soupy, stirring briefly with a clean spoon. Cover it with aluminum foil and let it sit overnight to cool and drain.
Planting the Seeds
The next day, set up a sterile workspace by wiping down the surface, a spoon, and your hands and arms with isopropyl alcohol. Ensure you’re freshly showered and wearing clean clothes, and turn off any fans or air conditioning 20-30 minutes beforehand to reduce airborne mold spores. Have all your tools ready for efficiency to minimize contamination risks. Place the container on paper towels to soak up any residual water, remove the foil, and stir the soil with the disinfected spoon to loosen it up. Smooth the surface with the spoon’s back without packing it too tightly, aiming for an even layer free of deep cracks where seeds might get lost. Scatter the seeds lightly across the top—don’t bury them, as they need light to sprout—and avoid overcrowding to give them room to grow. If using a heat mat with a thermostat, sterilize the sensor and wire, insert the sensor near the soil surface at an angle, and secure the wire with a clean binder clip. Mist the soil and seeds with undiluted 3% hydrogen peroxide to sterilize and boost germination, then seal the container with plastic wrap and tape it down. Maintain high humidity by keeping the wrap on until the seedlings reach about a centimeter wide, resisting the urge to peek, as this could disrupt their growth or introduce contaminants. The wrap traps enough moisture, so watering isn’t needed during this stage. Don’t worry if seedlings sprout sideways with visible roots—they’ll right themselves as the roots take hold.
Providing Light
Place the sealed container on a heating mat under a grow light, which offers more control and consistency than sunlight. Sprouting should occur within days to a couple of weeks, with healthy seedlings appearing bright green. If they turn orange or red, they’re getting too much light—move them farther from the source. If they stretch tall and thin, they need more light—bring them closer gradually, a few inches every couple of weeks, to keep them round and compact. Finding the right distance takes some experimentation based on your grow light’s strength. LED strip lights work well for germination, being gentle enough to sit about a foot away initially; after a few months, seedlings can handle being just inches from them. Mount the lights—say, with zip ties on a plastic shelving unit—and set a timer for 16 hours on, 8 hours off.
Managing Temperature
For the best germination, mimic desert conditions with warm days and cooler nights. Set the heat mat to 90°F (32°C) during the light cycle, syncing it to the light timer so it shuts off at night, letting the temperature drop to 60-70°F (15.5-21°C). If this range isn’t feasible, maintain a steady 80°F (26.5°C) on the mat. Without a heat mat, keep the room at 80°F. Once all seeds have sprouted, disconnect the heat mat and stabilize the grow area between 70-90°F, with 80°F as the sweet spot.
Hardening Off Seedlings
Transitioning to Indoor Growing Conditions
For the first few months, seedlings remain in the humid environment of the germination container. Hardening off is the process of gradually acclimating them to the less humid conditions of indoor growing. This begins when Lophophora seedlings reach about a centimeter in diameter. To prevent shocking these delicate plants, avoid removing the plastic wrap suddenly. Instead, poke a few holes in it every couple of days to slowly reduce humidity. Start with a grid of holes spaced a few inches apart, then add more holes between them every few days. Repeat this until the plastic wrap is fully perforated and can be removed. Seedlings thrive in close proximity and should stay in the container until they begin to crowd each other, signaling they’re ready for transplanting.
Watering Practices
Once hardened off, allow the soil to dry out completely between waterings. For the best growth, water again as soon as the soil is dry, targeting just the top half inch where the small roots are concentrated. Overwatering the whole container keeps the soil wet too long, which can lead to mold, fungus, or rot. You can also start fertilizing with Schultz Liquid Cactus Fertilizer at half-strength during each watering.
Maintaining Temperature and Humidity
After hardening off, maintain the grow room temperature between 70°F and 90°F, with 80°F being optimal. Keep humidity between 40% and 60%. Levels above 60% can encourage mold and rot, so ensure proper air circulation and monitoring indoors.
Transplanting Seedlings
Moving Seedlings to New Containers
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Transplanting Seedlings
Moving Seedlings to New Containers
After hardening off, seedlings stay in the germination container until they start competing for space. At this stage, transplanting becomes necessary. This process gives the Lophophora more room for root growth, lets you adjust the soil mix, and benefits the cacti, as they typically respond well to being moved.
Preparing the Soil Mix
For transplanting, combine 3 parts Pro-Mix HP with 1 part coarse sand in a large storage container. Use coarse sand specifically—fine sand can compact the soil, causing it to crack. Mix the two thoroughly to ensure an even blend.
Uprooting the Seedlings
To uproot, let the soil in the germination container dry out completely. Use a tool to carefully break the soil into chunks containing the seedlings. Gently tease apart the roots, removing as much soil as possible, and place the seedlings on a clean plate.
Transplanting the Seedlings
Once the soil and sand are mixed, spread it into the new container and lightly flatten the surface without pressing too hard. Moisten the top inch with plain water to ease transplanting. Lophophora have long, vertical taproots that must be planted straight—any bending or curling could hinder growth. Dig a hole deep enough for the taproot using a tool, set a seedling in, and gently firm the soil around the roots to secure it. Arrange the seedlings in a grid, spacing them an inch or two apart to allow room for development.
Watering and Feeding
Post-transplant, let the soil dry out fully between waterings. For optimal growth, water the top inch as soon as it’s dry, avoiding saturation of the entire container, which can keep the soil wet too long and invite rot, fungus, or mold. Keep using Schultz Liquid Cactus Food at half-strength with each watering.
Adjusting Light Exposure
After transplanting, boost the light intensity by switching from LED strip lights to stronger LED shop lights. Start with the seedlings about a foot away from the lights, then gradually move them closer—by a couple of inches every few weeks—until they’re just a few inches away.
Controlling Temperature and Humidity
Maintain the grow room temperature between 70°F and 90°F, aiming for 80°F as the ideal. Keep humidity between 40% and 60%, as levels above 60% can promote mold and rot.
Repotting into Individual Containers
When Lophophora cacti grow to 2½ to 3 centimeters in diameter, they’re ready to be potted individually. This step allows you to tweak the soil composition again and move them into terracotta pots, which help the soil dry faster. At this size, the cacti are better at storing water on their own.
Selecting the Right Pot
Choose a 3- to 4-inch unglazed terracotta pot, which is porous and speeds up moisture evaporation, reducing the risk of mold, fungus, and rot. Ensure it has a drainage hole to prevent water from pooling and damaging the roots. If the hole is large, place a piece of mesh screen or fabric over it to keep soil from escaping. Opt for a deep pot rather than a shallow one to accommodate the Lophophora’s long, vertical taproot—constriction can lead to root-binding and stunted growth.
Adjusting the Soil Mix
As the cacti mature, incorporate limestone into the soil, mimicking their natural limestone-rich habitats. Limestone adds alkalinity, which Lophophora prefer, and enhances drainage and drying speed. Use limestone screenings, but sift out any fine powder (a byproduct of crushing) with a wire mesh kitchen strainer from a dollar store to prevent the soil from hardening and cracking. Mix 3 parts Pro-Mix HP, 1 part coarse sand, and 1 part limestone screenings thoroughly.
Potting the Cacti
To uproot, circle the cactus with a tool pushed deep into the soil, then lift it out by the roots, shaking off as much old soil as possible. Gently work the roots with your fingers to loosen clinging soil. Position the cactus in the new pot, spoon soil around the roots, and lightly pack it with your fingers, ensuring the taproot stays straight—bending or curling it can impair growth. Fill soil only up to the base of the cactus, avoiding contact with its body to prevent fungal or rot issues. Top the soil with a ¼-inch layer of coarse sand to deter pests and shield the cactus from fungus and rot. Place the potted Lophophora under LED shop lights, where they can now tolerate being just a few inches away.
Watering Routine
Let the cactus settle for a few days after potting before watering to help the roots recover from transplant shock. Use plain water for the first watering, then switch to full-strength Schultz Liquid Cactus Food with each subsequent watering. Water from the top with a sprinkler head to minimize sand disturbance, continuing until you see runoff from the drainage hole. Water again only when the soil is fully dry, gauging this by the pot’s weight—it’s heaviest right after watering and lightest when dry. This takes practice to master.
Maintaining Temperature and Humidity
Keep the grow room temperature between 70°F and 90°F, with 80°F as the ideal. Humidity should range from 40% to 60%, as levels above 60% can foster mold and rot.
Annual Repotting
After a year, and each year following, repotting the Lophophora is recommended. This refreshes the soil and moves the cactus into a larger pot, giving its roots more space to expand. It’s also the final chance to adjust the soil mix, which will remain consistent for the rest of the Lophophora’s life.
Updating the Soil Composition
As the cactus matures and becomes more adept at storing water, add pea gravel to the soil mix to enhance drainage and speed up drying time, protecting against fungus, mold, and rot. The new, permanent soil blend will be 3 parts Pro-Mix HP, 1 part coarse sand, 1 part limestone screenings, and 1 part pea gravel.
Repotting Process
To remove the cactus, slide a butter knife around the inner edge of the old pot, then use it to lift out the soil and root mass. Rinse the roots under running water to clear away old soil and prevent transferring any contaminants to the new pot. Select a pot with at least an inch of extra depth for root growth, but keep the rim just a couple of inches from the cactus body—oversized pots retain moisture too long, risking mold, fungus, and rot. Repot using the same method outlined in the earlier potting section, maintaining the same watering and fertilizing routine.
Introducing Natural Sunlight
At this stage, you can start exposing Lophophora to natural sunlight to encourage flowering when they’re mature. However, intense, constant direct sun can burn even established plants. A window with a few hours of direct light works well, but monitor them for signs of burning. Begin acclimation with one hour of direct sun daily, gradually increasing over weeks. If burning occurs, cut back exposure. Sunlight strength varies by location and window, so adjust as needed—use shade cloth if it’s too harsh or supplement with grow lights (like Spider Farmer LEDs, kept 2-3 feet away) if it’s too weak, especially in winter. For outdoor growing, place them in a shaded spot with limited direct sun, acclimating gradually and using shade cloth if necessary. Watch closely for burning and shield them from rain to avoid overwatering.
Managing Temperature and Humidity
Post-repotting, keep the temperature between 70°F and 90°F, with 80°F as the target. Humidity should stay between 40% and 60%, as higher levels can promote mold and rot. If growing outdoors and conditions stray outside these ranges, bring the Lophophora indoors.